NV Ulysse Collin “Les Maillons”

DSC_0608More bubbles! This time a lesser known producer: Ulysse Collin. Based in Congy, Ulysse Collin produces champagne since 2004. After having done internships at Selosse (which is a nice wink to my previous post), he started out on a parcel just over a hectare planted with chardonnay thus creating Blanc de Blancs. In 2006, they started with their single vineyard Blanc de Noirs, which is called “les Maillons”. Les Maillons is only 0,6 ha small, giving a total production per year of 4500 bottles.

Let’s start. First thing that struck me was the color: it has almost a pink hue over the deep, golden color. The wine needed a little time in the glass to open up. At first, it was rather tight, notes of bread, toast and herbs. Sage, oregano and rosemary,herbs I like to call “cold herbs”. After 15 minutes or so, fresh, vivid red fruit made its appearance. Cherry, raspberry.

Palatewise, the toasty character also came through. The red fruit certainly showed up, however the acidity had some rough edges. Very cleaning and focused minerality. The herbal notes also come through on the palate. The mousse is quite hard, I have to say. Pleasant and good length.

This is a very exciting glass of champagne. It has character. It forces you to think about it. It needs to be thought about. Some additional bottle ageing might come in helpful. For now: this is an intelligent wine. Not for anybody, but I think it is a very good effort. Looking forward to taste more of Ulysse Collin.


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